Acne Skin Care - Cosmetics

Oil Free Cosmetics

The best types of cosmetics to use for oily or acne prone skin, are either oil-free cosmetics or non-comedogenic cosmetics.

Oil-free cosmetics mean products that contain little or no ingredients such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl esters, oleic acid, stearic acid, petrolatum and lanolin (especially acetylated lanolin, alcohol’s and lanolin fatty acids).

The label on the cosmetic should state that it is oil-free. This implies that the product has been formulated with no oleaginous ingredients. These products would be appropriate for oily or acne prone skin. For a small number of people, acne may still flare up, to feel better about yourself, you may want to consider using cosmetics to cover up your acne. You should remember that not all skins react alike to the same cosmetic. Oily foundations give the best and longest coverage, but tend to make acne worse.
Suggestions:

* You can use water based creams or alcohol based liquids under your foundation
* Matte or semi-matte, oil-free foundations are the best choices
* Sheer or transparent foundations are usually recommended for comodonal (blackhead) acne
* Fuller foundations (opaque) may be needed for red lesions or scars
* You can mix loose transparent powders (of appropriate tone) into the foundation to give better and longer coverage

From: Cosmetics in Dermatology, Draelos 2nd Ed.

Skin Camouflage

Skin Camouflage is a useful cosmetic for covering skin defects. A concealing cream may be applied to the skin prior to a foundation, the foundation in this case should either be sheer or opaque. Loose powder can then be used on top to set the foundation.

Examples:

Hyperflageฎ from Dormer Laboratories Ltd.

Dermablendฎ

CoverMark Face Magicฎ
Steps To Applying Camouflage:

1. Cleanse the skin.
2. Apply Hyperflageฎ sparingly to the lesion or area to be hidden - Note: Different colored creams may be required depending on the color of the defect to be concealed.
3. Let cream dry for a few minutes.
4. Foundation should be applied with a dry wedge sponge.

Sheer foundation needs two applications for moderate coverage, opaque foundation covers moderately on the first coat. Additional applications may be used, let it dry for a few minutes. Multiple thin layers may be used for maximum coverage, and loose powder may be applied with a cosmetic foam disc. After drying, excess powder may be removed by a complexion brush.
Colors Of Creams:

There are a number of different skin colors that can be concealed.

Green cream:

Masks skin redness from rosacea, burns, telangiectasias, as well as post-operative redness of the skin.

Yellow cream:

Masks purple and blue bruises, hyper-pigmentation, and white scars.

Mauve cream:

Covers black/blue and brown bruises, hyper-pigmentation, and dark circles under eyes.

Lavender cream:

Conceals yellowish bruises, hyper-pigmentation, and dark circles under the eyes of darker skin types.


Skin Foundations

Face foundations are used to cover skin blemishes, and acne, as well as to even out and give colour to your face. There are four basic types of foundations. They are all different combinations of oil, water, emulsifiers, talc, kaolin, titanium dioxide and pigment. Their ability to cover skin is related to the amount of titanium dioxide, talc, zinc oxide, chalk and koalin they contain. Chemical sunscreen may be added to the sun-protective effect of titanium dioxide.
Types Of Foundations:

1) Oil-based foundation

- These are water-oil emulsions which contain pigment in the oil. The water evaporates after the foundation is applied to the skin, leaving the pigment and oil on the face. This feels moisturizing and is useful for those who have dry skin. The color has good staying power and the foundation is easy to apply as there is time to play with the application before it sets, which takes a few minutes.

2) Water-based foundation

- These are also oil-in-water emulsions with only a little oil. The pigment is emulsified and the oil component reduces the drift or spread of color. They are good for people who have slightly dry to normal skin.

3) Oil-free foundation

- These have no animal, vegetable or mineral oil. They contain oily substances such as silicone based substances (dimethicone). The pigment is dissolved in water and other solvents. These are produced for those with oily skin.

4) Water-free foundation

- These are waterproof. Oil, alcohol and synthetic esthers are combined and then mixed with waxes to form a cream. These foundations may be opaque enough to be used to cover scars. The color is produced by combining titanium dioxide with iron oxides, and sometimes ultramarine blue.
Foundation Terms Used To Describe The Ability To Cover The Skin:

* Liquid - sheer to moderate coverage (sheer means semi-transparent)
* Mousse - sheer
* Water based- moderate coverage
* Souffl้ - moderate
* Water-free - full (opaque and therefore gives full coverage)
* Stick - full (opaque)
* Shake lotion - sheer
* Matte - flat with no shine
* Semi-matte - minimal shine
* Moist semi-matte - dewy shine
* Shiny


Skin Foundations For Different Skin Types

Some types of skin foundations work more effectively for different skin types. Read on to find out what will work best for you.
Acne Prone Skin And Oily Skin:

Oil-free, matte or semi-matte foundations are best, because they are least likely to aggravate the acne. However, these do not cover or last as well as the oily foundations, they are more difficult to apply and tend to collect around skin blemishes. Loose transparent powders applied over the oil-free foundation gives longer coverage. For skin with many comedones, sheer foundations are best. Inflamed acne needs moderate coverage, acne scars may need a cake foundation with minimum oil. Water-based creams or alcohol-based liquids can be used under the foundation. If medicated gels are applied they need to be allowed to dry before the foundation is used.

Examples:

Mattiqueฎ (L’Oreal) liquid, moderate coverage

Shine Freeฎ (Maybelline) liquid, moderate coverage

Demi-Matteฎ (Estee Lauder) liquid, moderate coverage

Oil Control Makeupฎ (Almay) liquid, sheer

Makeup#3ฎ (Prescriptives) liquid, sheer
Normal Skin:

Moist semi-matte foundations are very good, especially if there is not too much oil present. Sheer is good for those who only need some skin colour. Moderate coverage may be desirable if your skin has variable colors from chronic sun damage.
Dry Skin:

Oil based or water based foundations with a moderate degree of oil give you the best chance of retaining moisture in your skin. The oil will give a semi-matte finish, and will be easier to apply.

Younger people may prefer a moderately sheer, moist semi-matte look, and powder can be added to reduce the shine. Older individuals may want to use moderate coverage that does not accentuate their wrinkles.

If you have very dry skin, a souffl้ foundation may be more helpful because they are oilier and thicker. However, this can accentuate wrinkles, another option might be to apply a moisturizer followed by a less moisturizing foundation.

Examples:

Makeup # 1ฎ (Prescriptives) liquid, sheer

Liquid Perfectionฎ (Elizabeth Arden) liquid, moderate

Moisture Renew Makeupฎ (Almay) liquid, sheer

MoistureWear Creamฎ (CoverGirl) cream, moderate
Combination Skin:

If you are between the ages of 25 and 45, you are probably in this category, you will have an oily forehead, nose and the central cheeks area, commonly called the T-zone.

In this case, it’s important to prepare your skin before you apply the foundation. The oily areas should be treated with an astringent, and the dry areas moisturized with an oil-free product.
Acne Scars:

Oily or silicone based foundations are needed and should be used with little or no water.

Examples:

Pan-stick Makeupฎ (MaxFactor) cream, full (opaque)

Cr่me Powderฎ (Almay) cream, powder

Powdercreme Makeupฎ (Revlon) cream, powder
Post Surgical:

It’s important to take care of your skin after surgery in order to aid the healing process. No cosmetics should be used until the epidermis has healed and the sutures are removed, petroleum jelly may be used. If foundations are used too soon after procedures such as chemical peel, or dermabrasion may encourage tiny skin cysts or milia.

Once the epidermis has grown over, foundations will cover redness as well as the early acne scars. They will also as act as a sunscreen. Cream, or cream/powder formulations are best in this situation, these are of particular value after skin laser procedures to cover up the redness and/or bruising.
Examples:

Continuous Coverageฎ (Clinique) cream

CremePowder Makeupฎ (Almay) cream, powder

Maximum Coverฎ (Estee Lauder) cream

An undercover or camouflage cream under the foundation can be helpful to add better colour blocking. For instance, a green coloured cream can be used if redness needs to be hidden.

Powders and blushes can also be used over the foundation for additional coverage, powder will give a matte or dull finish.

These cosmetics should be used for short periods, if possible, and removed before bed using gentle skin cleansers. Special removers may be required for the waterproof camouflage foundations. These usually come as part of the package with each specialty product.


Credit : www.acneguide.com